Niagara Falls: One River, Two Countries, Three Cascades

Straddling the line between Ontario and New York State, Niagara is really a trio of cascades. Two of them, the broad American Falls and the slender Bridal Veil Falls, belong to the American shore. The third, the sweeping Horseshoe Falls, takes most of the river's flow and arcs along the Canadian bank. Millions of visitors come every year, and the roar reaches you long before the view does. Boats nose into the mist at the bottom, walkways lead you behind the curtain of water, and a tall observation wheel in Clifton Hill fits all three falls into a single glance. The river has also powered generators for more than a hundred years, which is part of the story. Set aside a whole day and expect to get soaked.

How to Reach the Falls Airports: Niagara Falls International (IAG) is nearest to the water but has limited service. Most travellers fly into Buffalo Niagara (BUF), roughly forty minutes off, or Toronto Pearson (YYZ), about an hour and a half away. Trains: Amtrak trains reach Niagara Falls, New York, from New York City and Buffalo. Over in Ontario, GO and VIA trains stop at Bridge Street station, which is a brief bus or taxi ride from the falls. Driving: In New York, the state park at the falls is reached from Interstate 190, which meets Interstate 90. From Buffalo airport, take Route 33 to I-90 and then I-190, about thirty minutes when the roads are clear. In Ontario, the QEW leads in from Toronto and Hamilton. Lines at the border bridges grow on weekends and holidays, so set off early.

Places to Sleep The Red Coach Inn: A Tudor-style inn on the New York bank, dating from 1923, a few minutes' walk from the state park. Rooms at the front overlook the upper rapids, and the dining room serves the best meal on that side of the river. Marriott Fallsview Hotel & Spa: High on the Fallsview ridge in Canada, near enough that its falls-facing rooms look directly across at the American Falls and its larger Horseshoe neighbour. A casino sits beside it, and a spa offers a calm afternoon. Dining rooms on the upper floors make the most of the outlook at dinner. Sheraton on the Falls: Linked by indoor walkways to the casino and to the indoor waterpark at Fallsview, a real plus in a cold February with kids. It has a number of restaurants, and you can request a falls-facing room when booking.

What to See and Do  The boat to the base: Maid of the Mist sails from the American side, and Niagara City Cruises from the Canadian side. Both carry you into the mist at the bottom of the Horseshoe Falls, where the noise and the spray are at their strongest. Rain ponchos are handed out, though you will still end up damp. Journey Behind the Falls: An elevator takes you down through the bedrock on the Canadian side to tunnels that open behind the Horseshoe Falls. You stand just metres from the plunging water. It is deafening, and well worth waiting for. Look for the viewing portals that open straight onto the curtain of water. Niagara SkyWheel: An enclosed Ferris wheel, 53 metres tall, on Clifton Hill. Its cabins are heated, a turn takes around ten minutes, and it gives the simplest view of all three falls together. Go after nightfall, when floodlights colour the water. In the warm months there are fireworks over the falls on selected evenings.

Good to Know How old it is: The falls were carved by glacial meltwater as the last ice age ended, about 12,000 years ago. The three are the American Falls, the little Bridal Veil Falls next to it, and the Horseshoe Falls. How much water: Horseshoe Falls has a drop of roughly 188 feet (57 metres) and carries most of the river. Across all three, the typical flow is about 85,000 cubic feet each second, though extra water is channelled to power plants overnight and outside the busy season. It runs on the falls: Turbines have been spinning on the river since the 1890s. The Sir Adam Beck stations in Ontario and the Robert Moses plant in New York continue to provide a big portion of the region's electricity.

Each bank offers a different angle, and the bridge crossing takes only a few minutes on foot as long as you carry your passport. Plan a full day, bring dry socks and a light waterproof layer for the boat, and arrive early if you want a boat ride without a long wait.